I noticed a liquid pooling up in the carpet of the driver's side floor board. After driving down the street to Home Depot I jumped back in the car to head home and the transmission would not shift into first gear. After a short inspection of a few things I discovered my master cylinder fluid reservoir was empty. A huge debate among semi educated car people is the difference between brake and clutch fluid. The answer is simple - there is no difference! They are both dot 3 hydraulic fluid. A quick top off and she shifted into first with light persuasion. A few shifts later it was once again smooth. So, verdict? It's time to replace the leaky Master Cylinder.
HOW TO REPLACE A MASTER CYLINDER on a 1995 Mitsubishi 3000gt 3.0L MFI DOHC 6cyl base model.
HOW TO REPLACE A MASTER CYLINDER on a 1995 Mitsubishi 3000gt 3.0L MFI DOHC 6cyl base model.
Step #1
1. Disconnect your battery. This should be your first step for any and all car repairs!
2. Using a 12 mm socket or cresent wrench remove the cable from the negative [black] terminal first. (Some cars will have the positive [red] cable attached to the chasis. If this is the case then disconnect that cable first.
3. You can stop there or remove the positive [red] cable as well. This depends on personal preference or location of the work to be done.
1. Disconnect your battery. This should be your first step for any and all car repairs!2. Using a 12 mm socket or cresent wrench remove the cable from the negative [black] terminal first. (Some cars will have the positive [red] cable attached to the chasis. If this is the case then disconnect that cable first.
3. You can stop there or remove the positive [red] cable as well. This depends on personal preference or location of the work to be done.
Step #2
1. Drain the hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder. You can use a shop towel to catch the overflow and a cardboard box under the car doesn't hurt either. This will not be reused so store it until you can recycle it at your local part store.
1. Drain the hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder. You can use a shop towel to catch the overflow and a cardboard box under the car doesn't hurt either. This will not be reused so store it until you can recycle it at your local part store.
Step #3
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1. Detach the master cylinder from under the hood. Locate and loosen the bolt using a 10 mm cresent wrench. This will detach the resivour.
2. Detach the hardline using a 10 mm flare wrench. Be very careful not to damage the line. It can crimp if you handle it to brutally.
(This tool is also called a crowfoot wrench. The only store I could find that carried it in brick & mortar was Napa Auto Parts. Everyone else would have had to special order it, or only offered it online. The brand is Evercraft.)
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1. Detach the master cylinder from under the hood. Locate and loosen the bolt using a 10 mm cresent wrench. This will detach the resivour.
2. Detach the hardline using a 10 mm flare wrench. Be very careful not to damage the line. It can crimp if you handle it to brutally.
(This tool is also called a crowfoot wrench. The only store I could find that carried it in brick & mortar was Napa Auto Parts. Everyone else would have had to special order it, or only offered it online. The brand is Evercraft.)
Step #4
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1. Laying under the dashboard on the driver's side floor board you can see where the clutch pedal attaches to the chassis of the vehicle. Follow the pedal up and loosen the nut labeled 4a.
2. On the passanger side of the clutch pedal, there is a pin that looks like the little sketch to the right. Remove the security pin from the bracket bolt 4c.
3. Remove bolt 4c keeping the plastic washer with it for replacement.
4. Now remove bracket allowing the rod to slide out and to the side (this gives you enough room to separate the two.)
5. Remove the two bolts where the master cylinder connects through the firewall using a 10 mm wrench.
6. At this point if you have assistance ask person 2 to slide the master cylinder out through the hood while you guide the rod through the firewall. You can do this yourself if need be.
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1. Laying under the dashboard on the driver's side floor board you can see where the clutch pedal attaches to the chassis of the vehicle. Follow the pedal up and loosen the nut labeled 4a.2. On the passanger side of the clutch pedal, there is a pin that looks like the little sketch to the right. Remove the security pin from the bracket bolt 4c.
3. Remove bolt 4c keeping the plastic washer with it for replacement.
4. Now remove bracket allowing the rod to slide out and to the side (this gives you enough room to separate the two.)
5. Remove the two bolts where the master cylinder connects through the firewall using a 10 mm wrench.
6. At this point if you have assistance ask person 2 to slide the master cylinder out through the hood while you guide the rod through the firewall. You can do this yourself if need be.
Installation of the new or rebuild Master Cylinder is just the reverse of these directions above. Don't forget to bleed the clutch before test driving your 3000gt. Good luck!
Another great resource for instructions on this job can be found here 3si.org, so thanks DeceptionsDream for the tutorial and pics. Lastly thank you John for your help with the installation and clutch bleed.
Another great resource for instructions on this job can be found here 3si.org, so thanks DeceptionsDream for the tutorial and pics. Lastly thank you John for your help with the installation and clutch bleed.
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